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Rennes: Presses universitaires de Rennes, generated 11 novembre ISBN: The opportunities for French wine are even greater in mainland China, which is still dominated by big brands and household names such as Alsace, Bordeaux, luxury champagnes and a few burgundies. The only exception is Macau, where opportunities are limited because the casinos have little need to look beyond the most famous wines given that many of their bottles are gifted to big-spending guests and used as entertainment for high rollers. Like Hong Kong, Macau's cultural and culinary development is also heavily influenced by Europeans - in its case Portuguese.

These days the sin city lusts after anything and everything ultra-premium, driven by the extravagance of its number one tourist attraction: gambling. Macau's thirst for champagne and, yes, expensive Bordeaux is unquenchable. Scanning any casino wine list, wine lvoers wil find the most comprehensive listings of top vintages from top Bordeau chateaux. Within domestic China, Shanghai's wine market is developing rapidly at the auspices of China's nouveau rich and the city's reputation as a cosmopolitan metropolis.

In all these markets, including Hong Kong, wine merchants are the most influential group. They are responsible for wine importation and order fulfilment and it stands to reason that if they don't bring in the wines, consumers will not have access to them and the market won't develop further. In that regard, Hong Kong's wine market remains a little immature. Most merchants' wine lists generally contain one brand of wine from the Rhone Valley, one from Bordeaux and one from Champagne.

There is reluctance to think more broadly and few suppliers are dedicated to promoting a variety of growers from, say, the Champagne region or specilicing in the Loire. Having said that, there is a small but rising band of wine merchants that is unconstrained by the conservative attitudes that plague the majority. These trailblazers work together without preconceived ideas about what the market wants.

They promote new brands and encourage wine lovers to develop a taste for quality wines, regardless of the size of the price tags. These merchants are a force to watch and I predict they will be the most active and significant aspect to drive development in Greater China's wine market. Still, more could be done to deepen the markets' knowledge about French wine categories. At the moment people in China who are talking about French wines are talking about Bordeaux, a few top-classified growths of well-known chateaux, famous champagne brands, and a handful of top burgundies. By way of international market competition, however, France has no equal.

France is consistently the number one importer of wines in Hong Kong and Mainland China for the last 10years. The closest competitor to French wine is Italian, which likewise has the combined appeal of its food and wine, lifestyle and geography, respected old world positioning and traditions. France's overwhelming strength rests in its ability to popularise almost every wine list in Greater China.

French wines are a very common sight on Chinese restaurants' wine lists and consumers in Greater China will happily drink French wine with any cuisine, whereas Italian wine has not been able to broaden its reach much beyond Italian restaurants. The only sub-region of Greater China that has enjoyed more than 10 years of French wine tradition is Hong Kong. In fact, the international wine industry in China is only 15 years young.

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Nowhere, though, has its growth been so rapid, so impressive and so far reaching. Champagne is the original, and still best-performing, French wine available in Hong Kong. Champagne's association with celebrations, social and even family gatherings made it an almost indispensable part of Hong Kong society life.

More recently Greater China has been in the grip of a red wine phenomenon, given legs by a 60 Minutes report on its health benefits, together with publicity about Robert Parker's point scale which enables consumers to instantly recognise quality. When Parker awarded Chateau Mouton Rothschild his top score of points the whole concept of drinking pre. French wines still have an excellent image in Germany, but they are often seen as rather snobby and, in many cases, overpriced.

The positive development over the past ten years has certainly been the emergence of the Languedoc, and other lesser known appellations, not only in terms of quality and value for money, but also in the sense of brand building. The classical regions, on the other hand, have generally lost market share. Similarly, some producers in Burgundy complain that it is hardly worth their time to invest in the market, because the "Germans are not willing to pay our prices".

That, though, is long overdue. France didn't discover wine, nor was it the first country to make fine wines, but it did have the good fortune to have developed its system of appellations rather early and to have been in the right place at the right time as wine began to emerge as a sophisticated beverage.


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As in any business, being the first to market a product internationally is generally an enormous competitive advantage. I certainly believe in the idea of vineyard specificity However, the concept is being overplayed. In most cases, were talking merely about wines with a local character, but that is like an accent.

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It adds flavour to what is said, but does not in itself carry any great meaning. Similarly, the idea of French specificity in today's world sounds a little bit like political sabre rattling at a conference of the European Union. There are some wines that are unmistakeable French in character, just as there are those that taste Italian, Spanish or Austrian.

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None of them are any better than the others as such. Further, most consumers would have a clue in trying to discern these flavour nuances Among the whites, few regions can compete with what Riesling is doing in Alsace, Germany and Austria.


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For the consumer, though, the most promising vineyards are those that will provide the best value for money. Brands will become ever more important, especially as consumption shifts to markets that are further from the regions of production.

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That means that producers will have to make larger quantities of a given quality at a certain price and market the brand well if they want to have an international impact. This has not been one of France's strengths in the past. At present, of course, the consequences of the financial meltdown are still difficult to assess, but I believe that one major effect will be a return to consumer normality. Wine is, after all, a beverage. Yes, some are better that others, but too many producers were trying to sell too many overpriced wines This is nothing other than a liquid version of the sub-prime mortgage crisis.

Common sense was sacrificed at the hands of greed. Producers will need to find ways to be profitable in the future at different price points; and consumers will need to learn again that the value of a good bottle of wines is the pleasure it procures Il est le critique le plus influent dans le monde. The image of French wines in the United States continues to span both the luxury-priced wines and the ability of many French winemaking regions to provide exceptional value, even with the economic turmoil and ever-changing currency and exchange rates.

Having followed French wines professionally for over thirty years, I see French wines as more popular than ever before, but that does not mean there are not challenges that need to be confronted. For wine neophytes in the United States, it is often much easier to understand labels with varietal names such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, or Syrah as opposed to French labels, which, while not complex, present some difficulty.


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The other challenge is that too often the uniformed consumers think that all French wines are too expensive, when in fact, there are many extraordinary bargains in every prestigious French wine region, including Bordeaux and Burgundy. Until the international economic crisis began fully at the end of , French wines seemed to follow two paths.

This was most noticeable with the top wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy as well as Champagne. At the same time, the number of high quality wines from these regions increased dramatically as a younger generation of men and women came to power and pushed the envelope of quality higher and higher.

In essence, there seems to be a bipolar view of French wines by the American wine consumer.

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One segment believes all French wines are expensive as well as difficult to find, and another sector the more informed and sophisticated recognizes that many areas of France are veritable treasure troves for outstanding wine quality at very reasonable prices. It is impossible to separate French wine from the image of French culture and French history. All of these characteristics are admired. The French culture is respected and treasured throughout the world for its wine, art, fashion, cuisine, and its appreciation for the finest things in life.